Fancy Food at The Storefront Company
They’re doing some pretty beautiful stuff at The Storefront Company in Bucktown. Overall, I’d say it’s pretty darn delicious, too. Here’s the scoop:
The breads are made in-house. Three kinds; all fab. The butter pyramid, which consists of butter and whipped butter, has a little sprinkle of a fancy, course sea salt…. which is always a good thing.
I mean… how beautiful is this carrot salad? Gorgeous, no? That’s housemade ricotta underneath it with a pinenut brittle and delicate little micro kale. Wonderful! (I thought the ricotta needed a sprinkle of salt, as homemade ricottas often do.)
This is the ‘Reds and Greens’ salad. The little pouches of goat feta-stuffed cucumbers were the winners for me here. They were like little explosions of salty goodness. Radishes, a couple of ways, confit tomatoes and a green olive paste kept it exciting.
The rolled lobster salad was quite tasty, too. I have to say, though, that the grapefruit gel, while lending immensely to presentation, tasted synthetic on it’s own. When eaten in combination with the rest of the ingredients, its sort of chemically-ness disappeared, but it still weirded me out a little. (Molecular gastronomy is only cool when it still tastes like good in the end.)
Perfectly cooked handmade pasta is always a plus in my book. This one had wabbit in a couple ways including the fried offal. Delish!
While the quinoa was VERY flavorful, I’m not sure it was worth $18. Pea tendrils, pea emulsion, ramps and tomatoes certainly made it tasty but if I were a vegetarian and this was my dinner, I would’ve had to go home and scavenge the fridge. Know what I’m sayin’?
We also decided on a composed cheese plate instead of dessert (or so we thought). Sweet beets, tangy balsamic, salty chevre, and nutty-sweet walnut bread gave this dish the ability to successfully walk the line between savory and sweet.
And then we ended up with this beautiful plate of mignardises, too. Gelees, macaroons, and lovely multi-flavored chocolates were so fun to taste and an elegant finish to a lovely meal.
The part I liked most about Storefront Company is this: the food is clean. That’s to say, the flavors were their own… not masked or ‘enhanced’ with butter or bacon fat. Did I think there were a few steps along the way where the flavor combinations could have been a bit more balanced? Yes. But that’s ok. They’re new. They’re doing a darn good job, considering. And hopefully it’ll only get better!